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Looking back on the events of our years in Greece, all seemed to lead to this inevitable conclusion. The monk seal had been sacrificed on the altar of national security. When His Excellency A. Chorofas of the Permanent Greek Mission to the United Nations dispatched his representative to Gland in April 1980, time had been of the essence. Although our press release had only appeared in a few minor newspapers that morning, the danger of this hidden secret being exposed was enough to have Danellis sent scurrying to IUCN/WWF headquarters in an effort to kill any further media coverage and investigation of the affair. Indeed, the swiftness and efficiency was entirely incongruous given Greece’s normally stultifying bureaucracy, and this in itself illustrated the gravity of the situation. Judging by their inordinately intimidated reactions when I arrived at Gland later that same day, the organizations’ compliant silence had been assured through some form of coercion which can hardly have been subtle. Had Danellis perhaps carried, in his diplomat’s attaché case, YPEA’s secret allegations of collusion between WWF, their international co-ordinator, the 1001 Club and the Canadian-dominated consortium drilling for oil off Thasos? Had Danellis threatened to publicly divulge those allegations should IUCN/WWF refuse to back down and disassociate themselves from our endeavours to have the affair investigated in the media? Had this in turn induced the hierarchy at Gland to commence its lengthy and ritual ‘dumping’ procedure against their international coordinator, which finally ended in a blazing row? But Danellis may also have carried other orders. Rather than rushing to Gland simply to complain about my lifestyle, he may have bluntly informed the organizations that because of ‘national security’ their proposals for eastern Aegean reserves would inevitably prove fruitless. In turn this explained why IUCN/WWF did not merely replace me with someone possessing a more impeccable lifestyle, but killed the entire project instead and, a year later, privately declared the monk seal to be ‘unsaveable’. They knew perfectly well that I couldn’t keep that kind of secret to myself. Also lending weight to this hypothesis was my chance meeting in June 1982 with Dr Constantine Vamvakas, who had been booted out of his directorship of the Ministry of Co-ordination’s Oceanographic Institute. It was then I learnt for the first time that on the inter-ministerial committee which had been convened to assess our project in 1979, the Ministry of Defence, who harboured grave doubts about us, only agreed not to veto the project on condition that we carry out no research work in the eastern Aegean, effectively prohibiting us from creating sanctuaries for the monk seal. But with mounting pressure from abroad, including the Council of Europe and the EEC, Yeroulanos and Vamvakas could not bring themselves to enforce the restriction and perhaps never had any intention of doing so. This explained the strenuous tug of war which developed between the civilian and military sections of the government, and why the orders of two ministers had been persistently flouted by the developers at Seitani: they, after all, were being protected by a much higher power. But was Seitani under commercial or military development? In fact the question was largely academic, since both interests could quite happily coexist in the area. The road that was built to ferry tourists to Megalo Seitani’s sable shores at the height of the season could also be used by army convoys for the rest of the year. Hotels and restaurants would not preclude the construction of a discreetly camouflaged military base perched on the hillside. Both entrepreneurs and generals could win their much-coveted prize; the only obstacle was the monk seal and us. This marriage of convenience explained why no one had been able to trace the funds being poured into the Seitani development. This in turn suggested the reason why YPEA was able to cling so tenaciously to its secret allegations against the project and why so much camouflage and intrigue was necessary to hound us out of the country. In the final analysis, they refused to arrest me simply because there was something much deeper to hide. What had to be concealed from the public was not only complicity at Seitani. Since the heyday of the Rhodes Conference, YPEA and the Ministry of Defence had been well aware of the monk seal’s imminent extinction and the international concern to protect the species. It was precisely because of this international concern that the Ministry of Defence stipulated that its immutable veto of eastern Aegean sanctuaries was top secret. To announce it publicly would be to sign the death warrant of the monk seal before a world audience. A golden autumn gently settled upon the island and I relished my last few days on Samos; I knew that once I had left the country, I might never be able to return again. Swift light clouds looming over mountain cypresses like wild geese. A coppice of sunflowers against a beach-stone house. The sound of rain trickling into a water-butt beneath wooden "uttering. Higher in the mountains, heavy and ominous storm clouds being chased away by an exuberant wind. The wind was tired of the clouds and it jostled them away over the peaks above us in our tiny houses and kalivis. A few days later, the autumn storms would come rolling in again from the sea, wild birds scattering, and at night, lightning would begin to sear the sky over Turkey; with the distant rumbling of thunder it would sometimes seem as though we were already at war. Clouds and mist would swamp the mountain villages, like Ambelos itself, only hours before a string of crooked lights against the silhouetted peaks in a limpid night sky, constellations tilting over. We went to the autumn feste in Ambelos, the sound of the bouzouki and the traditional songs of freedom resounding through the steep and winding streets, the papas now drinking his wine and raki out of a teacup because of complaints of his drunkenness. And I even danced for the first time, a Greek dance with the people of the village, a long line of us, curling through the caféneon and out over the terrace under the diminishing vines. I would spend the fleeting days roaming the coasts and mountain pathways, higher and higher until the village was just a fleck of red roofs nestled against the gold and copper mountainside, the sea far below blue as far as the eye could see. Looking down from these high ranges, the island’s spiritual power seemed suddenly lucid; obvious, its silent, unthreatening pride, its grace and serenity. There were light racing clouds in the autumnal sky, the kind that swirl around within themselves, clouds that, as the sunlight suffuses them, become like the intricate prisms of an eye. I would pass ramshackle houses, deserted and overgrown with weeds. Decaying watermills where mountain torrents once ground this ghost village’s barley into flour. On higher slopes I’d come across crumbling windmills whose white canvas sails used to turn in the blue meltemi. Was I being hopelessly naive, hopelessly idealistic? Perhaps, and yet I was still haunted by a soulful defiance, believing implicitly that these innate expressions of creativity, idealism and vision were as much endangered by Reality’s cynicism as any disappearing animal and plant. Here, in these dying villages, there seemed to be a hidden dream of the future, a civilization which with creativity and inspiration could rekindle the invisible bond of consciousness between humanity and Mother Earth. Villages emerging from their vulnerable backwardness yet retaining their deep and innate simplicity, a transcendental blend of wilderness and cultivation. A village revival, adopting not a culture alien and injurious to them, but one intimately linked to their own traditions. In my mind’s eye I saw graceful windmills fuming again in the meltemi, now not only grinding grain, but lighting and heating the houses too; how the solar collectors would arc across the sky with the movement of the sun, how the wooden paddles of the water mill would again be driven by the mountain stream. How this arched stone bridge would be repaired with the hands of a craftsman, not demolished and replaced by concrete. Or this ancient amphitheatre, deserted, overgrown with weeds, unused for two thousand years, once again full of people, enraptured by a play or concert under a starry sky. How the villages would begin to attract the travellers of this world rather than the conveyor belt package tourists who care nothing for their culture. Or this bare mountainside once again covered with forest. Or this rich soil which could help Samos become the only island in Aegean to make wine and grow food as Nature intended, free of chemicals. Or these dying crafts revived again, weaving, pottery, copper and bronze work. And here, another ancient skill resuming to the island – a trout hatchery and other aquaculture projects to give the coastal waters the time and peace they need to recover. And in the future, perhaps, schools and a university of inter-disciplinary studies, where ecology would be taught as universal, embracing both Nature and human culture, and ultimately perhaps, even linking the spirit of the individual with the luminous mantle-like soul of the Earth. Were these not ways out of the devil’s alternative that the island faced, ghost village or city village? But if such visions, burgeoning across the Earth, are to be more than idle dreams, more than scattered and vulnerable intimations against the Reality of our times, then where are the bridges that must heal the disintegration of humanity? Where are the bridges that, by re-creating a human ecology, will encourage a holistic perception of the Earth and clear the daunting and abstract confusion which allows the world’s momentous problems to multiply and grow ever more disfigured? We are now nearing the critical point in the Unseen War, the threshold beyond which the living Earth will die. What is to be the fate of Earth? Finally and with urgency the question must be asked. The diametric wars of a diametric man? The nuclear winter? Famine and disease? A slow and agonizing death by development? An Earth preserved by sustainable development, neat and ordered, as sterile and soulless as a museum or a zoo? Whatever the answer, humanity faces a formidable challenge, probably the greatest the world has ever known, since it must, by implication, coalesce the most fundamental manifestations of existence, spirit and matter, which have been torn asunder by the schizophrenia of our species. Teetering on the brink of the midnight hour, the Unseen War has become so devastating that nothing short of a peaceful planetary revolution, a revolution in consciousness, will be able to save the Earth. This is because a global awareness of a deep or universal ecology is essential simply in order for humanity to begin to recognize the vital inter relationships between the myriad aspects of the Unseen War. In the same way, only a universal ecology could ultimately hope to heal the schizophrenia of humanity, the disease which is causing the ravaging symptoms of the war. Racked by fragmentation, even the so-called ‘alternative movement’ has contracted this virulent disease. Indeed, its stultifying disunity must be a favoured ally of the establishment, as long as those vast centralizations of Power can remain solid and intact themselves. It can be no coincidence that the paranoia of Power regards virtually any small-scale endeavour which might relieve people’s dependence upon it as a potential threat to its survival, and that alternative science and technology are lambasted as ‘utopian’ and are starved of funds. The philosophy of a ‘return to Nature’ is treated in the same way, with the establishment wheeling out its propaganda machine and the favourite scare scenarios which that contraption beams into urban minds: poverty, destitution, anarchy, a proud civilization reduced to living in damp caves. They realize all too well that the autonomous or community use of such alternatives would begin to cause a surge of revival in the dying villages of the world. The movement today is actually a multitude of disparate organizations, groups and individuals, the majority of them strictly imprisoned within their own specializations – everything from bird preservation to protesting nuclear dumping, from saving the tropical rain forests to saving the village pond, from disarmament to anti-vivisection, from the protection of native peoples to biodynamic farming and solar energy. The diversity is both prodigious and confusing. And yet even today, at the height of the Unseen War, each organization is still characterized by its own rigid and stultifying borders, jealously guarding its own turf, competing with rivals, clinging myopically to its own specialization and, in the final analysis, ignoring the very definition of ecology. Although war and militarism are all-pervasive in their destruction, against all ecological rationality, the conservation and peace movements are separate entities, and the same is true of every specialization from human rights to solar energy. Fundamentally, this means that the movement is no movement at all, since these walls only serve to negate interdependence and alienate support at a grassroots level. Only beyond those walls are the individuals who could transform these myriad organizations into a mass movement: the disaffected young, frustrated by their inability to have any bearing on their own destiny, the people who inhabit the dying villages of the world, and the millions of concerned individuals who see no credible way of donating their talent and creativity to an all-embracing cause. Yet for an idea whose time has come, the quest would now be to build, like craftsmen, an interrelating, holistic and federated Movement whose entire motivation would be to tackle the Unseen War as a whole and to build together, with imagination and ingenuity, the vision of a civilization which could live in harmony with Earth. On a practical level, the Movement would act as a co-operative embracing all of the following specializations:
These would also be joined by the more progressive wings of the world’s religions, and by teachers, photographers, writers, artists and musicians and many others whose membership of the co-operative could provide every project of every federated group with the skills vital to make that project a success. Fundamentally, it is these interrelationships which would become the foundations of an organic revolution, and perhaps the cradle of a civilization which in itself would become ecologically holistic, gently lifting and dispersing power from its present concentrations. With the dynamic co-operation of these diverse specializations, it can be anticipated that the Movement’s total effectiveness would become profoundly greater than the sum of its parts. A grassroots involvement could be expected almost immediately, sparking the chain reaction which would rapidly create a powerful mass movement. And here, the responsibility for saving the Earth would be removed from its present concentrations of power and imparted to the individual. In turn, the influence of the Movement would be magnified immeasurably by this change in individual consciousness. At the economic level alone, an unprecedented pressure could be brought to bear upon industry and commerce by the diversion of personal wealth to more ecology-friendly enterprises. Yet no one could expect humanity to embrace a mere vision of an alternative civilization. Realizing that the cities are becoming obsolete and destined for inevitable decay, civilization must return to the dead and dying villages of the world. Their restoration would become the focal point in creating a touchable vision of the future, since they alone would be capable of exploding the myth of 20th-century gigantism and the chemico-mechanistic doctrine of contemporary city-based civilization. In striving to create a village-based civilization in harmony with the natural world, these communities would think and act both locally and globally. Ecologists would work side by side with stonemasons, biodynamic farmers and solar energy engineers, with teachers, musicians and alternative economists. It is here, on active projects, that the borders between people, nations and professions would come tumbling down, that bridges of communication would be built between diverse specializations, links which would become the life-force of human and universal ecology. By the middle of October, Mickey Kaufmann and Jonathan Thomas of Greenpeace had arrived on Samos, though more for personal relaxation than any Greenpeace commitment to our ailing endeavours to save Seitani. The pashas at Greenpeace International were apparently loathe to offend Andreas Papandreou who styled himself a keen supporter of Greenpeace. On 11 October I vainly presented myself at Samos police headquarters to apply for a visa, but was received with a contemptuous laugh: ‘You’re Mr Johnson. You cannot get another visa. You have to leave the country immediately.’ But again, despite the ritual threats of arrest and expulsion, nothing happened even though my existing visa had already expired. On 17 October we visited Seitani again, this time with Mickey and Jonathan. To our dismay, we discovered that a long concrete wall had now been constructed with an adjacent terrace prepared for building, perhaps the site of some future villa or restaurant. Bricks and other building materials were piled along the road. I was photographed sitting on top of the bricks and standing against the wall looking like a convict or hostage, with a newspaper in my hands to confirm the date. These could then be compared to photographs taken a month earlier, but the sad fact was that officialdom and the embarrassed environmental groups in Europe found the proof just too inconvenient to believe. During our walk along the pathway to Megalo Seitani, we observed three hunters entering one of the main seal caves by boat, and a few moments later heard a volley of gunshots. Was the plan now to arrange the slaughter of the Seitani seals, so that it would be pointless to establish the sanctuary? A few hours later we reported the incident to the Karlovassi port police, but they told us, with supreme indifference, that although such incidents were ‘regrettable’ they could take no action unless the Ministry of Agriculture was actually willing to ban hunting in the area. As if to justify their convenient nonchalance they added: ‘We have no evidence that they are killing seals.’ A few days later, we had decided upon our course of action. Almost penniless, it was the only avenue left open to us. It was necessary to prove publicly, once and for all, that the allegations against me were false, made only to mask the scandal at Seitani and the Monk Seal Conspiracy. And so, on 20 October, I informed YPEA and the chief of police that I intended to make a one-day trip to Turkey. If I succeeded, I would be granted an automatic three-month visa on entering Samos again. But if the authorities really thought I was a Turkish spy, they would either arrest me, prevent me from leaving, or at least search me before I boarded the Stella, a tourist ship bound for Kusadasi. Early the following morning I passed through Greek customs, but not one of the officials showed the slightest interest in searching my baggage or looking for any secret documents I might have been carrying. However, upon my return to Samos that evening I was met off the boat by a reception committee composed of the highest police and port police officials, the public prosecutor, and several intelligence officers from YPEA and KYP. Once again, however, I was not searched. I was told that I was being detained because of an order barring my entry to the country. I requested that the British consul, Mrs Marc, be summoned. The request was granted. I was detained under armed guard for over 36 hours at the Customs Office, without food, washing or sleeping facilities. I was forced to sleep on the concrete floor under bright fluorescent lights, without even a blanket, and Mrs Marc complained to the chief of police that the conditions under which I was being held contravened international regulations on the treatment of prisoners. The police chief cynically replied that I was not a prisoner, but only ‘under detention’. Further requests for meetings with the consul were denied. With a few notable exceptions, the police and port police officers who guarded me were amiable and intrigued by my story, much to the chagrin of the YPEA agents and the chief of police. They read a copy of the Epikaira article which I had with me, looked at me knowingly with a mixture of admiration and sympathy, and shot resentful glances towards the gruff agents of YPEA. They knew instinctively that some high-level corruption was dictating the affair, and pleaded with me, perhaps to soothe their own consciences and helplessness, to come back to Samos again as soon as I could. It hurt them that they should have to force me into Turkey against my will. On 23 October 1982 at approximately 7 a.m. I was taken forcefully onto the Stella, bound once again for Kusadasi. I was accompanied by two police officers, two officials of the port police, and two YPEA agents. The police threatened to arrest anyone taking photographs of the incident, and posted officers around the harbour to ensure that their order was obeyed. As soon as Rita came on board to say goodbye to me, the YPEA agents seized her aggressively and began pushing her out of the saloon. A heated argument erupted and only the timely intervention of the port police managed to prevent the agents from striking her. The Stella left Vathi harbour an hour later, closely shadowed by a patrol boat of the customs authorities. Just before entering Turkish territorial waters, the patrol boat manoeuvred close to the Stella and all but one of the officials, an YPEA agent, boarded the grey launch to return to Samos. The Stella then made its way to Kusadasi, and I was accompanied by the remaining YPEA agent onto Turkish soil. In fact the agent even followed me as far as Izmir – an unbelievably reckless act since, if we had been apprehended, we could both have ended up in one of the Turkish military government’s notorious prison camps.
Contents | Previous Chapter | Next ChapterThe Monk Seal Conspiracy – World Copyright © 1988 William M. Johnson /
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